Hi, I own an 2004 Skoda Fabia 1.2 HTP petrol 3 cylinder. It's the more powerful 64 bhp version if that matters.
Just passed the MOT with the help of new suspension parts, no advisories. The computer tells me it's time for a service, new oil new filters etc. This is likely to cost about £200.
It's been fully serviced till now. Is this worth doing? The car has just ticked over to 134000 miles which I think is high for a little petrol. It had a brand new timing chain at 115000 miles so that is unlikely to fail.
My daughter (a vet student) bought a small car advertised as low mileage from a garage in Jan for £900 to use for work placements. She used money given to her by an orphans fund as she lost her Dad.
After 3 weeks she took it to a different garage, one the vet students use, as the oil light came on, they told her it needed 3and1/2 litres of oil.
She has taken it to garage again today and it needs another 4 litres of oil, an obvious leak.
Does she gave any comeback with the garage she bought it from? She was not offered any guarantee. She has no Dad to go along and speak for her, although the mechanic who has diagnosed the leak is willing to call them to see if he can get her money back.
I need to replace my 225/65/R17 tyres in the near future, do you know when this size CrossClimate might be available? Can you also give any recommendation alternatives such as Goodyear 4 season or Nokian?
I currently have a Panda 1.2 (euro 4) with 60 bhp and it's great, but I'm looking for a newer car. Having read all your reviews on small city cars, I've found the Panda to be the best choice. The 1.2 engine in the new Panda isn't fun and I've been looking at the Panda Twinair as I only do short commutes with the odd longer journey.
Would you recommend the Twinair or avoid it altogether. If you would avoid it, what alternatives would you suggest?
I own 2014 Honda CR-V 1.6 diesel. Recently I've noticed it has an intermittent hesitation issue - most noticeably when cruising at light throttle in top gear at around 65mph which is just below 2000rpm. There are no fault lights on the dash and I've tried Shell V-Power, BP Ultimate, standard diesel, but nothing seems to fix it. Any ideas?
I have a tyre wear issue with my Nissan NV200 van. The fronts usually last for 27,000 miles, yet the rears wear out (mostly on the outer rim) at 14,000 miles.
I have spoken to other NV200 drivers and they confirm this on their vehicles (fleet users). Nissan deny any responsibility. Do you have any other queries about this issue?
I have just purchased a brand New dealer registered top of the range Honda CR-V, but when it rains water gets into the rear wheel well - the dealer has tried twice to fix it within 10 days of ownership but it still leaks a little. I would not expect this of a £30,000+ car and doubt that they will ever fix it. Can I reject the vehicle?
I have lost, through a fire, my MOT certificates dating from 2001 to 2006. I'm not sure I can recall the testing station (I have moved well away from that area) and I wonder whether there's another way I can obtain these?
I am interested in buying a used Mitsubishi Outlander 2.0 or 2.2 diesel (apparently the 2.2 is more economical?) but have read that there is an issue whereby the crankshaft seal can fail and allow engine oil to contaminate the clutch.
Not a cheap repair obviously and this is making me nervous about buying one. I was just wondering how common the fault actually is and if it's confined to a particular engine?
I'm being told by my local BMW dealer that after 25,000 miles both the disc and pads need to replaced on my 3 Series (335). This is because of supposed pitting and surface corrosion on the discs. I feel that this is too early to be replacing discs. The cost of this is £1200. Am I wrong to question this?
Our Ford Fiesta will be two years old in July 2016. Ever since we bought it, we have found that battery goes flat after not using the car for a week to 10 days, particularly if we open a car door several times to put something in or take something out.
It has been back to main dealer, but they say there is nothing wrong with it. I have spoken to their manager but no joy. I am at my wit's end to know what to do about this situation - Can you help?
My step-son purchased a second hand Alfa Romeo from a dealership two weeks ago. He paid an additional £400 for a 15 month warranty. As he was driving home he noticed the oil temperature gauge was not working.
The dealer has now indicated the cost of the repair will be £1000 as it is not covered under the warranty. Has the dealer a legal responsibility to either repair the vehicle or offer a full refund?
I am currently driving a Volkswagen Phaeton from 2006 and feel like it is time to upgrade it. I do love the Phaeton but it is getting a bit old now and the fuel consumption is well below the modern cars.
I have a budget of around £15-16k and for that I want to buy a used car that's comfortable and economical. My first choice is a 2007 Mercedes-Benz CL500. I know it is not the most economical car in the world, but I would convert it to LPG which would cost me half the price at the pump.
The second car I am considering is a SWB Jaguar XJ from 2009 onwards. I love the looks and the 3.0-litre diesel is both super quick and super economical. Could you please help me choose or m
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