Hi I am looking at changing my Toyota Rav 4 multidrive s 2010 35k miles. Can you possibly give me an alternative car to buy that has about the same spec as the Rav 4. Only thing with the RaV 4 is the fuel MPG, the maximum return on urban driving is 27.3. I really would like better economy off another petrol model
here I am again with another request for help - I am intending to purchase a Mazda CX-3 2.0 petrol AWD with 18" wheels on contract hire and have requested that they put on all- season tyres as best compromise but Mazda say that any change can affect handling - this may be true as only seem to be able to get all-season on 55 profiles or larger, not on 215r18/50 as the vehicle comes with - any advice on where I should go from here - ideally want the AWD model with all-season tyres - what should I be insisting on or advising them in terms of what is OK to fit ? I find it hard to believe that all-season or winter tyres cannot be fitted to the AWD CX-3 as this must be a requirement in continental Europe in the winter season - I think they are telling me garbage !
I am looking to purchase a vehicle that is suitable for my mother's needs i.e a high seating position for easy access and a low load height and preferably a flat loading area to enable an electric buggy to be manually loaded on and off.
Male/model not really important, likewise petrol or diesel as we will not cover too many miles nor new/used.
A Ford Fusion seems to fit the bill, or maybe a Skoda Roomster. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
My CRV is a good car but i think the tyres , (225/70) R15 or something like that are too small
This sounds stupid but is there any way to get new tyres and bigger alloys as these tyres look puny on such a big 4WD veichle
PS Why are there such big discounts on the Mercedes E Class . I just ordered one on a 2 year lease for just £190 monthly
I want to buy a replacement for a 52 plate Volkswagen Passat. Petrol only due to low annual mileage. Narrowed down to 3 choices: new 5 door manual Golf GTI (£25.5K), new Octavia vRS Estate (£23.5K), or a 64 plate Volkswagen CC 2.0 litre petrol GT210 (£20k with 5K miles).
All three have basically same engine and the Golf/octavia have same MBQ chassis. Which would you go for?
My 2010 BMW 520d broke down on the motorway with a snapped timing chain and BMW asked for around £6000 to repair it. Since then the BMW agents have found the crankshaft wasn't damaged and the total repair came down to £4500.
I had taken out a 12 month warranty policy with Auto Protect when I bought the car 11 months ago at a cost of £1000 as the dealer said it was comprehensive. I checked the policy and indeed it covered timing chains.
Before any work was started at BMW, Auto Protect sent out an assessor to photograph and check the parts. They came back 2 days later and said they wouldn't pay anything because it was 'fair wear and tear', BMW told them it was mechanical failure. I have now paid the £4500 but feel I should have some payment from the warranty policy, I told Auto Protect I would go to Trading Standards but they just said go ahead, we are in the clear.
Any advice you can give would be most welcome?
I have a few issues regarding the electrics in my SEAT Leon Cupra 2003. I have had it for a year now. When I purchased it the rear passenger central locking failed to lock. A few months after the electric window failed to work. During this time I noticed the battery was running out if I left the car for 3 days without turning it over and still continues to do so if I don't. I noticed water ingress in the drivers foot well a few months after that but resolved this. Could these issues be down to a broken wire in door jam or am I looking potentially at something bigger. Any help would be amazing.
I am looking at a 2008 Lexus RX400h with 72000 miles from a Lexus dealer. I assume the hybrid battery and motor will need to be replaced. Could this be done properly by an independent Toyota/Lexus garage? Could they offer a comparable warranty to a lexus dealer?
For a couple of months now, I've had an intermittent problem with black smoke from the exhaust coupled with a reduction in power. Recently it's become less intermittent. Motorway driving is fine as even with the problem happening, I can gradually get the car up to 60mph, put it in cruise control and gently get home. However come off the motorway and try to get up and down steeper hills and it really struggles. My local garage (here in France, and not a Hyundai dealer), did a diagnostic test and identified a "problem" with the Air Mass Sensor - so we replaced it. All was well for a couple of weeks then the problem came back. Garage said new diagnostics test showed "No Faults". They suggested perhaps a problem with dirt in the fuel (diesel, by the way). This weekend, I changed the air filter and the fuel filter under the bonnet and, although I did a
100 mile round trip on the motorway yesterday with no problem, today the problem has reared its ugly head once again. Unfortunately my local garage are closed for hols at the moment so I'd be grateful for any thoughts.
My 25 year old daughter needs a small car to get to and from work as a teacher. She lives in Kings Lynn - would leasing be a good idea and would it cover insurance and would they help her if the car went wrong?
I have just had my under slung spare wheel stolen from my 2015 Discovery 4 and I am in the process of trying to replace the wheel and cradle system. Initially I was being asked for £1200 to do this but LR have reduced this amount as a gesture of goodwill - although it is still at a level I am not happy with.
It seems that there is a design flaw with their design as was proved when my dealer had 4 wheels pinched from their forecourt. The same week ours was taken our dealer also had another customer suffer the same fate.
Have you had any involvement with this issue in the past? Is there a solution you know of making it harder to steal the wheels?
I'm planning on running my Avensis with all season or winter tyres and I have found on a reputable online tyre supplier. Are there any downsides to running all weather tyres throughout the entire year? The car is on standard size tyres for an Avensis.
I bought an ex-demo from dealership with about 50 miles on the clock. At 3000 miles the clutch needed replacing due to "complete burn out". DMF and slave cylinder also replaced, DMF damaged due to heat, slave as a precaution.
Escalated to Ford service team, driving style blamed and refusal to refund any costs. Driving style is nothing out of the ordinary. Now feel I'm sitting on a timebomb, who knows if it will go again in another 3000 miles? What would you do?
I have a BMW 320d with 132k miles and have just been told that the timing chain will need replacement. It will cost €1500. If I get it done and change the oil every 10k am I likely to get another 130k out of it?
The windscreen washer jets on my BMW 3 Series only put water onto lower part of windscreen (until last week they worked perfectly but have gradually failed to put water to the top of the screen). The rear tailgate and head lights washers work perfectly. BMW want £120 to cure problem without looking at it, (1hr labour because wheel needs removing).
I am emigrating to Australia and need to buy a car when I get there. I'm really close to signing a contract on a Nissan X-Trail. A family member just advised me to stay away from Nissan and I then looked at some customer reviews. Generally not good. Auto box issues - irrelevant I am looking at manual. Sat nav issues - big problem. Noisy engine in the petrol - irrelevant as I am looking at diesel. Your advice would be most welcome.
I have been wondering for some time how residual values are set? Obviously there are used car price guides (for the consumer and the trade) but who establishes the prices in the first place, and how? I'm quite sure there's an element of supply and demand, although surely the predicted residual values could influence the demand, rather than react to it?
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